DEnim services

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At East + West, we believe the purchase of your jeans is just the beginning. Our goal is to make them last as long as possible and to continue to service them in whatever way we can as they age. As such, we offer denim repair services on jeans that develop holes and blowouts, whether they came from our shop or not. 


What is darning?

Darning is a traditional repair technique that uses a specialized machine to reweave damaged fabric, mimicking the warp/weft weave of natural fiber fabrics like denim and canvas. Darning is superior to patching in both the look and feel of the repair - patched holes typically add additional stress to the fabric around the areas where the repair was sewn and can, in the long run, contribute to uncomfortable wear and additional premature blowouts.


I'd like to have my jeans repaired. How does this work?

First things first - if your jeans are in need of repair, wash them. Clean denim repairs much better than dirty denim. The areas of the jean that need repair will be much clearer to the naked eye when clean and any broken warp or weft threads will show more naturally than when they're holding dirt, sweat, and grime. After that, if you're in the St. Louis or Kansas City area, you can drop your jeans at either of our flagship stores for a quote and projected wait time:


East + West STL

387 N. Euclid Ave.

St. Louis, MO 63108


East + West KC

1828 Grand Blvd.

Kansas City, MO 64108


If you are out-of-state and interested in our mail-in service, send detailed photos of the areas of the jean that need repair to our textline: +1 (816)-824-6524Please include your name and email address in your initial texts.


We will respond within 24 hours with a link to an invoice - after the invoice is paid, we'll send you a prepaid label to ship your jeans to our KC store.


Do I have to pay the invoice that you send me?

No, the invoice is a no-obligation quote. You only need to pay the invoice if you plan to proceed with having your jeans repaired. The invoice will expire in 14 days, after which you will need to have your jeans re-quoted.


How is your pricing structured?

The pricing for each repair is based on the scope of the work necessary to return your jean to full wearability and functionality. Our team will quote repairs based on the size and scale of various holes, rips, tears, and reinforcement sewing necessary to achieve that end. Reinforcement is much more affordable than repairing full blowouts so, as high abrasion areas - such as the crotch - begin to thin, it's better to give them attention early than wait until a blowout has forced your jeans out of rotation.


How long does the repair process take?

Repair time is based on our current workload, though we will include a projected timeline with your quote based on our current volume.


Can you quote multiple pairs of jeans at once?

Absolutely. Just make sure to note when you have completed sending photos of each jean before moving on to the next pair.


Can you repair jeans with stretch content?

Yes, but the repair itself will not stretch and will inevitably cause tension in the repaired area. Darning is most effective on 100% cotton denim, but the lifespan of a jean with a small percentage of synthetic stretch content can be extended with thoughtful repair. 


Why do I always get crotch blowouts? Can you help me avoid them?

Crotch blowouts are the result of some combination of abrasion, tension, and fabric deterioration. There's no silver bullet to avoiding them entirely, and even the best jean will wear out in the crotch eventually, but, in our experience, there are a few ways to limit your blowout frequency. First, and this sounds simple, but buy jeans that fit you properly. Often, this means not buying the smallest size you can slam yourself into. The fabric tension in a pair of jeans that are extremely tight across the wearer's thighs and seat means that both the crotch seams and the fabric itself are subjected to undue stress. This will, in short order, cause your jeans to blow out. Second, wash your jeans every few months, not years. The fading potential of a jean is not endangered during the wash cycle. Removing dirt, sweat, and bacteria from your denim is essential to its long term viability. Wash your jeans cold, with detergent, in a washing machine, and hang to dry. Lastly, if you are committed to avoiding blowouts, consider giving new raw denim a single rinse in a bath tub or washing machine before you wear them. Rigid denim will crease in the crotch in the first few dozen wears, and as the crease itself 'sets' in the denim, the warp threads are prone to breaking and blowing out. Rinsing a raw pair of jeans eliminates hard creases and allows fabric in the crotch more natural movement during the break in process.